Textiles and Gender in Antiquity : From the Orient to the Mediterranean

Weitere Verfasser: Michel, Cécile , [HerausgeberIn]
Harlow, Mary, 1956- , [HerausgeberIn]
Quillien, Louise , [HerausgeberIn]
Ort/Verlag/Jahr: London : Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2020.
Umfang/Format: 1 online resource (345 pages)
Schlagworte:
Parallelausgabe: Harlow, Mary, Textiles and Gender in Antiquity : From the Orient to the Mediterranean (Print version:) | ISSN: 9781350141490
Online Zugang: Available online
Inhaltsangabe:
  • Cover page
  • Halftitle page
  • Series page
  • Title page
  • Copyright page
  • Dedication
  • CONTENTS
  • PLATES
  • FIGURES
  • TABLES
  • CONTRIBUTORS
  • ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
  • CHAPTER 1 TEXTILES AND GENDER IN ANTIQUITY: AN INTRODUCTION
  • 1.1 Research on ancient textiles
  • 1.2 Gendered textile terminologies
  • 1.3 Gendered textile activities
  • 1.4 Gendered wardrobes
  • 1.5 Concluding thoughts
  • Note
  • References
  • PART 1 GENDERED TEXTILE TERMINOLOGIES
  • CHAPTER 2 TEXTILES AND GENDER DURING THE MIDDLE BABYLONIAN PERIOD (c. 1500-1000 bce): TEXTS FROM SYRIA AND BABYLONIA
  • 2.1 Garments of women in cultic contexts: the case of the high priestess of Baal
  • 2.2 Garments in dowries
  • 2.3 A Middle Babylonian list of clothes for the wedding ceremony
  • 2.4 Conclusion
  • Abbreviations
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 3 THE GODDESS NANAJA'S NEW CLOTHES
  • 3.1 A letter of the king's son
  • 3.2 What is the garment called kus�ˉtu (Sumerian: t�ug-bar-dul 5)?
  • 3.3 The causes of displacement
  • 3.4 Modes of travel: the 'boat of the kus�ˉtu' (eleppu ša kus�ˉti)
  • 3.5 Conclusion and hypothesis
  • Appendix: Transliteration of YOS 6, 71/72
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 4 TEXTILES AND GENDER AT UGARIT
  • 4.1 Gender and textile production
  • 4.2 Women and clothing
  • 4.3 Offerings in the ritual texts
  • 4.4 Women warriors
  • 4.5 Conclusion
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • Abbreviation
  • CHAPTER 5 TOWARDS ENGENDERING TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN MIDDLE BRONZE AGE CRETE
  • 5.1 Middle Bronze Age Crete and the evidence for engendering textile production
  • 5.2 Textile production-related iconography of MBA seals from Crete
  • 5.3 Human figures in the imagery of the MBA glyptic - towards recognizing their gender and potential professions
  • 5.4 Quartier Mu, Malia, as a case study of a site-specific context for textile production and sealing practices.
  • 5.5 Concluding remarks
  • Notes
  • References
  • PART 2 GENDERED TEXTILE ACTIVITIES
  • CHAPTER 6 A MAN'S BUSINESS? WASHING THE CLOTHES IN ANCIENT EGYPT (SECOND AND FIRST MILLENNIA bce)
  • 6.1 Iconographic documents
  • 6.2 Second millennium literary sources
  • 6.3 Documentary texts from Ramesside to Hellenistic period
  • 6.4 Conclusion
  • Abbreviations
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 7 WOMEN, MEN, GIRLS AND BOYS: GENDERED TEXTILE WORK AT LATE BRONZE AGE KNOSSOS
  • 7.1 Textile manufacture: workers and textiles
  • 7.2 Concluding remarks
  • 7.3 Excursus on the Linear B term o-nu-ke-ja (pl. f. onukheiai)3
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 8 FEMALE DUES AND THE PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES IN ANCIENT GREECE
  • 8.1 Agamemnon's offer
  • 8.2 Collecting dues in Homeric epic: Dotinai and Themistes
  • 8.3 Marriage and the practice of collecting dues
  • 8.4 The practice of collecting dues in Archaic Greece
  • Acknowledgements
  • References
  • CHAPTER 9 GENDER AND TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN ROMAN SOCIETY AND POLITICS
  • 9.1 Wool-work and exemplary women of early Rome: Tanaquil and Lucretia
  • 9.2 The dualism of lanificium and textile production
  • 9.3 Feminine women, manly women and effeminate men
  • 9.4 Conclusions on gender roles and textiles in Roman society
  • References
  • CHAPTER 10 WORK GENDERING SPACE? ROMAN GENDER, TEXTILE WORK AND TIME IN SHARED DOMESTIC SPACE
  • 10.1 Locating domestic textile work
  • 10.2 Daytime domestic textile work and its soft boundaries
  • 10.3 Night-time domestic textile work: the paradigm of Lucretia
  • 10.4 Ventriloquized speech, agency and the control of working space
  • 10.5 Male fantasies of female space
  • 10.6 Conclusions: boundaries reinforced
  • Notes
  • References
  • PART 3 GENDERED WARDROBES
  • CHAPTER 11 SOME REMARKS ON TEXTILES AND GENDER IN THE EBLA TEXTS OF THE THIRD MILLENNIUM BCE.
  • 11.1 Textiles for men and textiles for women
  • 11.2 Textiles given to girls as dowry on occasion of their marriage
  • 11.3 Textiles for the great ritual
  • 11.4 Textiles for dead and the tomb
  • 11.5 Textiles given for the ceremony of purifi cation after a death
  • 11.6 Textiles as gifts for gods and goddesses
  • 11.7 Conclusion
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 12 A VISUAL INVESTIGATION OF FEMININE GARMENTS AT MARI DURING THE EARLY BRONZE AGE
  • 12.1 Methodological issues
  • 12.2 The shell inlays of Mari
  • 12.3 Headdresses
  • 12.4 Clothing
  • 12.5 Pins and adornments
  • 12.6 Function and identity?
  • References
  • CHAPTER 13 BELTS AND PINS AS GENDERED ELEMENTS OF CLOTHING IN THIRD AND SECOND MILLENNIA MESOPOTAMIA
  • 13.1 Dressed like a man, dressed like a woman
  • 13.2 Pins for women
  • 13.3 Belts for men
  • 13.4 Conclusion
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 14 'I MADE YOU PUT ON GARMENTS, I MADE YOU DRESS IN LINEN': GENDER PERFORMANCE AND GARMENTS IN SUMERIAN LITERATURE
  • 14.1 What does a goddess's garment look like?
  • 14.2 Textiles as a communicative tool in romantic interactions
  • 14.3 Garments and affective states
  • 14.4 Conclusion
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 15 THE GENDER OF GARMENTS IN FIRST MILLENNIUM bce MESOPOTAMIA: AN INQUIRY THROUGH TEXTS AND ICONOGRAPHY
  • 15.1 The terminology of garments and gender
  • 15.2 Iconography: what distinguished male and female clothing?
  • 15.3 Conclusion
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 16 WHITE MEN AND RAINBOW WOMEN: GENDERED COLOUR CODING IN ROMAN DRESS
  • 16.1 Ancient sculptural polychromy
  • 16.2 The colours of male and female garments in ancient sculpture
  • 16.3 Colouring the moral compass
  • 16.4 Conclusions
  • Notes
  • References.
  • CHAPTER 17 GARMENTS FOR POTTERS? TEXTILES, GENDER AND FUNERARY PRACTICES IN LES MARTRES
  • DE-VEYRE, FRANCE (ROMAN PERIOD)
  • 17.1 General context of the study
  • 17.2 The graveyard and the graves
  • 17.3 The textiles
  • 17.4 Gendered or not?
  • 17.5 Garments for potters?
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 18 FASHIONING THE FEMALE IN THE EARLY NORTH AFRICAN CHURCH
  • 18.1 Introduction: exploring female dress
  • 18.2 Inherited attitudes towards female dress
  • 18.3 Debating female dress in Tertullian: women
  • 18.4 Debating female dress in Tertullian and Cyprian of Carthage: virgins
  • 18.5 Male voices and criticism of female attire
  • 18.6 Conclusion: fashioning the female in Christian Carthage
  • References
  • CHAPTER 19 CLIMATE CHANGE AND CLOTHING CHANGES IN LATE ANTIQUE MALE DRESS
  • 19.1 A change in dress for a changing climate
  • 19.2 Conclusions
  • Acknowledgements
  • Notes
  • References
  • PART 4 AFTERWORDS
  • CHAPTER 20 A NOTE ON GENDER AND FRENCH'HAUTE COUTURE' IN 1970: 'LES SUM �E RIENNES' BY JACQUES EST�EREL
  • Notes
  • References
  • CHAPTER 21 CONCLUDING REMARKS
  • References
  • INDEX OF NAMES
  • GENERAL INDEX
  • Plates.